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I have been making suits for over 40 years the subject is is a fully canvased suit better than a fused suit I will let you be the judge.
Firstly, fused or canvased, they both bubble now the number one reason is excessive dry cleaning mainly the jacket. Think about it, when you take your jacket to the cleaners, the jacket goes into a big machine with other jackets in some cases up to 25 kilos. Imagine 25 kilos pounding your jacket for 45 minutes it’s basically like a tumble dryer with cleaning fluid. I’m not saying don’t dry clean your jacket but be very picky on who cleans it.
I have made thousands of suits my self personally & still made them today. From when I started in this business fusing has come a long way it comes in different weights weaves and today has a very soft feel as canvas comes different weights and weaves.
About 25 years ago I had made myself a beautiful lora piano pure cashmere jacket. The time came it had to be dry cleaned I didn’t trust any dry cleaner. I happened to be at old watering hole where I met a tailor who had a dry cleaning business who had explained to me how dry cleaning works. He invited me to see his set up so I went. The secret was instead of placing in 20 jackets in the machine he would only put in a maximum of 5.
Today we all live in a world that evolves faster than what we can keep up with – cars for example, a 66 Bentley or 2015 Bentley, which one do you want? I’ll let you be the judge.
My grandfather was a master builder, my father is a Master Tailor. I too am a Master Tailor, I guess the Mastery did not miss a generation.
We all have one thing in common – we are engineers, we all have a craft and we love what we do. This is why we all have a passion for our craft as my grandfather, my father and now myself, we are all perfectionists. We were all born to create and bring to life the material we use.
As a little boy I watched my grandfather build his home from the foundations to his dinning table. As for my father, I watch him bring a piece of cloth to life from start to finish, that is were my passion began.
At the age of six, I was standing on a milk crate cutting around chalk marks with big 13 inch shears. By the age of nine, I was making trousers, soon after that by at the age of 15 I had left high school and gone to work with my father, who had the fourth biggest suiting manufacturing company in Melbourne, this is were I started appreciating the craft.
I think I was about 6 years old at the time and my family were on our way to see my uncle in hospital. When we arrived, I split the inner thigh seam of my trousers. I started crying because I felt embarrassed. My father asked me to remove my trouser when we were in the car and by this time I was hysterical. So I removed my trouser and gave it to my father. He put his hand in his fob pocket. He removed a thimble, lifted his lapel and grabbed a sewing needle undid the hem of his trousers and used that cotton to sew up my trouser.
All I can say now when I think back at that moment in time, that is one of the qualities you need to be a Master Tailor. That is the ability and instinct to resolve a problem as quick as it arises.