The Ultimate Trouser Guide 1: Cut and Silhouette
Where to start?
So you've decided you want to invest in some custom trousers? Bespoke, made-to-measure, made-to-order. All varieties offer you the opportunity to change the features and styling of your order. Sometimes however, the customization options can be a little daunting to narrow down. Or perhaps, you'd like to broaden your horizon and try something new and fresh with the next pair. Whichever it is, this guide hopes to help you better understand the selection process for custom trousers, and provide you a thorough overview of the choices that you can make.
First in this series will be about the cut and silhouette. The most fundamental elements of trousers is how they sit, hang, and drape. Creating the right silhouette and lines for the wearer depends on the wearer, their style and fabric choices. Understanding these factors can help you choose the right cut, which can make or break an outfit.
The trusty classic straight cut, or 'loose' cut depending if you've gotten used to wearing fitted clothes. The quintessential to every wardrobe. Rightfully so, even after trends have come and go, straight trousers always remain. Easily spotted by a pant leg that descends (surprise, surprise) straight down or marginally inwards from the hips to the hem. This style has the most ease in the pant leg, meaning it can be worn by nearly anybody and still be flattering. In addition, if one opts for pleats, the ease across the pant leg allows for the pleats to drape cleanly. Often straight cut trousers are worn higher up on the waist to highlight the drape of the trouser, as well as featuring a classic 'whale-tail' rear.
The Short Version: Timeless, classic. The straight cut trouser can work for anybody and the ease in the pant leg makes them very comfortable. Perfect choice for highlighting sharp pleats and quality fabric.
For those wanting something a little more modern, with a semi-traditional silhouette. Distinguishable by a pant leg that tapers in subtly from the hips down, this silhouette can help to provide the illusion of slimmer legs in proportion to the upper body, emphasizing a V-shape. Pleats can still drape cleanly if opted for and there is still ease to allow comfort for the wearer. Of course, how far on the spectrum you like to taper your trousers will place the silhouette more towards either the straight or fitted shape.
The Short Version: Trusty, reliable. The tapered/slim trouser works well for emphasizing upper body proportions whilst still keeping a moderatly traditional silhouette. Can work with pleats and lend itself to a variety of styles.
The utmost slimmed and shaped cut, the fitted trouser is a very modern silhouette. Identifiable by a strong taper from the hip to the hem, the fitted trouser greatly helps to slim the legs and emphasize the upper body. Pleats tend to be forgone and flatfront or darted styles become common. This is because the drape of the fabric will not be evident due to the lack of ease in the pant leg. Most commonly worn by, althought it need not be restricted to, a younger audience, this style can be great for for those looking to showcase an athletic build. Often, fabric with stretch is used here to facilitate the shape of the wearer and movements that would otherwise stress non-stretch fabrics.
The Short Version: Modern, flatters athletic builds. The fitted trouser is ideal for greatly emphasizing athletic builds. Great for flat-front and darted trousers, often accompanied by stretch fabrics for comfort.
Now we've covered three of the fundamental trouser silhouettes, but don't be alarmed if you're still unsure which is best for you. Explore your style and what's in your wardrobe now to get an idea of the shapes you like. Look at other trousers to see which catches your eye, and then come in to see us at Adriano Carbone, Master Tailor. Bespoke suits is our forte and we love helping guide our clients on their sartorial journey. Stay tuned for the next installments in The Ultimate Trouser Guide as we explore pockets, cloths, unique variations and more.
In the meantime, be sure to check out our Instagram for the latest updates and creations, or call us on (03) 9600 2422 to make an appointment!