Women's Suits Archives - Adriano Carbone

The Ultimate Trouser Guide 1: Cut and Silhouette

The Ultimate Trouser Guide 1: Cut and Silhouette

Men's trousers
Trouser's present an opportunity for customization and individuality.

Where to start?

So you've decided you want to invest in some custom trousers? Bespoke, made-to-measure, made-to-order. All varieties offer you the opportunity to change the features and styling of your order. Sometimes however, the customization options can be a little daunting to narrow down. Or perhaps, you'd like to broaden your horizon and try something new and fresh with the next pair. Whichever it is, this guide hopes to help you better understand the selection process for custom trousers, and provide you a thorough overview of the choices that you can make.

First in this series will be about the cut and silhouette. The most fundamental elements of trousers is how they sit, hang, and drape. Creating the right silhouette and lines for the wearer depends on the wearer, their style and fabric choices. Understanding these factors can help you choose the right cut, which can make or break an outfit.

Straight

Straight trousers
Classic straight trousers with pleats. Source credit: https://www.pinterest.com.au/pin/844706473840756297/

The trusty classic straight cut, or 'loose' cut depending if you've gotten used to wearing fitted clothes. The quintessential to every wardrobe. Rightfully so, even after trends have come and go, straight trousers always remain. Easily spotted by a pant leg that descends (surprise, surprise) straight down or marginally inwards from the hips to the hem. This style has the most ease in the pant leg, meaning it can be worn by nearly anybody and still be flattering. In addition, if one opts for pleats, the ease across the pant leg allows for the pleats to drape cleanly. Often straight cut trousers are worn higher up on the waist to highlight the drape of the trouser, as well as featuring a classic 'whale-tail' rear.

The Short Version: Timeless, classic. The straight cut trouser can work for anybody and the ease in the pant leg makes them very comfortable. Perfect choice for highlighting sharp pleats and quality fabric.

Tapered/Slim

Client Trouser
The slim/tapered trouser pairs well with classic styling.

For those wanting something a little more modern, with a semi-traditional silhouette. Distinguishable by a pant leg that tapers in subtly from the hips down, this silhouette can help to provide the illusion of slimmer legs in proportion to the upper body, emphasizing a V-shape. Pleats can still drape cleanly if opted for and there is still ease to allow comfort for the wearer. Of course, how far on the spectrum you like to taper your trousers will place the silhouette more towards either the straight or fitted shape.

The Short Version: Trusty, reliable. The tapered/slim trouser works well for emphasizing upper body proportions whilst still keeping a moderatly traditional silhouette. Can work with pleats and lend itself to a variety of styles.

Fitted

Fitted trouser
Fitted trousers are often accompanied by a shorter pant length to balance the proportions. Source credit: https://www.pinterest.com.au/pin/504825439480838768/

The utmost slimmed and shaped cut, the fitted trouser is a very modern silhouette. Identifiable by a strong taper from the hip to the hem, the fitted trouser greatly helps to slim the legs and emphasize the upper body. Pleats tend to be forgone and flatfront or darted styles become common. This is because the drape of the fabric will not be evident due to the lack of ease in the pant leg. Most commonly worn by, althought it need not be restricted to, a younger audience, this style can be great for for those looking to showcase an athletic build. Often, fabric with stretch is used here to facilitate the shape of the wearer and movements that would otherwise stress non-stretch fabrics.

The Short Version: Modern, flatters athletic builds. The fitted trouser is ideal for greatly emphasizing athletic builds. Great for flat-front and darted trousers, often accompanied by stretch fabrics for comfort.

 

Now we've covered three of the fundamental trouser silhouettes, but don't be alarmed if you're still unsure which is best for you. Explore your style and what's in your wardrobe now to get an idea of the shapes you like. Look at other trousers to see which catches your eye, and then come in to see us at Adriano Carbone, Master Tailor. Bespoke suits is our forte and we love helping guide our clients on their sartorial journey. Stay tuned for the next installments in The Ultimate Trouser Guide as we explore pockets, cloths, unique variations and more.

In the meantime, be sure to check out our Instagram for the latest updates and creations, or call us on (03) 9600 2422 to make an appointment!

What we do

What we do

What can't a Master Tailor do?

Here at Adriano Carbone, Master Tailor, we pride ourselves in quality craftsmanship and professional service. We don't stop here, however. Many people think a tailor just makes garments, but we are so much more than that. Our services span from the creation of new custom garments, through to altering existing garments and reviving them through mending and tailoring. With experience making garments for both men and women, casual and formal attire, we are confident that you'll love the garment you leave with.

 

Located in the heart of the Melbourne CBD, we would like to be your first stop for quality suits and alterations for both menswear and womenswear. All our garments are cut, manufactured and fitted in-house from beginning to end. This means everything is locally made, made in Melbourne and ethically sourced. You're even welcome to visit our workshop, located directly above the showroom, and to personally meet the team behind your clothing!

Adriano Carbone, Master tailor measures and cuts all the garments in house.

Our custom garment services start with our made-to-measure service, which if you are applicable for, is a fantastic entry opportunity into the world of custom clothing. Building on from that is our tailor-made service which accounts for greater variations in body type and customization. Our most prestigious and luxurious service, bespoke-made, is the best of the best and is for the connoisseur of suits. For more information on our custom made suits, please follow the links to our Men and Women suit pages.

 

In addition to creating new garments, we perform alterations with the same precision and care to refine or mend garment. Formal and casual attire, suits, pants, shirts, overcoats, we've seen them all. Need to shorten a jacket, trouser or shirt, or taper in the fit? Not a problem. Have a coat that you want fitted or shortened? We can handle that. How about something more challenging? Want to convert a double breasted jacket to a single breasted one? We've done it, and will do it again. Our professional alterations are done on site, in-house just as our custom garments are, so you can be assured they are performed with the same quality as brand new garments are. For more information on our alteration service, please follow the link to our Alteration page.

Men's and women's garments altered professionally in-house by our team.

Simply give us a call on 0396002422 to arrange a time to come in, or send us an email using the form on our Contact page. To stay up to date on our work, follow our instagram account for all our latest updates.

How Relevant is the Construction of Tailor Made Suits

How Relevant is the Construction of Tailor Made Suits

I have been making suits for over 40 years the subject is is a fully canvased suit better than a fused suit I will let you be the judge.

Firstly, fused or canvased, they both bubble now the number one reason is excessive dry cleaning mainly the jacket. Think about it, when you take your jacket to the cleaners, the jacket goes into a big machine with other jackets in some cases up to 25 kilos. Imagine 25 kilos pounding your jacket for 45 minutes it’s basically like a tumble dryer with cleaning fluid. I’m not saying don’t dry clean your jacket but be very picky on who cleans it.

I have made thousands of suits my self personally & still made them today. From when I started in this business fusing has come a long way it comes in different weights weaves and today has a very soft feel as canvas comes different weights and weaves.

About 25 years ago I had made myself a beautiful lora piano pure cashmere jacket. The time came it had to be dry cleaned I didn’t trust any dry cleaner. I happened to be at old watering hole where I met a tailor who had a dry cleaning business who had explained to me how dry cleaning works. He invited me to see his set up so I went. The secret was instead of placing in 20 jackets in the machine he would only put in a maximum of 5.

Today we all live in a world that evolves faster than what we can keep up with – cars for example, a 66 Bentley or 2015 Bentley, which one do you want? I’ll let you be the judge.