Author: Adriano Carbone

What is a Made-To-Measure Suit?

Adriano Carbone The Master and the Apprentice 0 Comment
Custom Suits Melbourne

What is a Made-To-Measure suit?

Hi, and welcome to how we see Made-To-Measure! My name is John Cichello and I am an apprentice for Adriano Carbone Master Tailor. In this post, I will be talking about Made-To-Measure garments and in my opinion, what you need to know when looking for a quality one. People often have difficulty trying to find a suit off the rack , because they're frequently made to fit a certain person, of a particular size, with a characteristic shape. A challenging target market to fit into, especially once you start factoring in that every persons body and shape is truly unique! Sometimes the chest may be too tight, the sleeves too long, or perhaps the style is different to what you desired. Made-To-Measure suits are the next best choice up from something straight off the rack as it allows you to make customisations, within limits, and helps you to get something that is more tailored to your body and shape.

 

Building your "profile"

Our Made-To-Measure service begins with building your profile to help us understand your body shape and requirements. This is accomplished through three basic measurements of your chest, waist, and seat along with an assessment of your physique and individual characteristics of your body. Then, a master garment is worn and reference photos are taken to provide the necessary visual information for later adjustments.

Some of the tools used in a Made-To-Measure garment.

Particular with fabrics and linings? No problem, so are we!

We stock a huge range of fabrics and linings from different milliners all over the world, including, but not limited to Scabal, Huddersfield, Laura Piana, and Dormeuil. Fabric is a flat, 2D object cut and attached in such a way so that it drapes, wraps and shapes the 3 dimensions of the wearer. Fabric forms such a crucial part of a garment, that as a foundation of any garment it should never be skimped on. So, if you’re going to spend the money to invest in a Made-To-Measure garment, invest in quality fabric. It should be one of the first and foremost things on your mind so you don’t tarnish a quality garment with a cheap cloth.

There's no shortage of fabrics here.

Cut, sewn, and all made locally

We make our Made-To-Measure suits 100% in Melbourne, in the block arcade, in our sartoria. In addition, Adriano himself cuts each garment, individually. This allows us to create a customised garment to the individual, from scratch. Whether you have a truly unique body shape, eccentric styling preferences, or have your own unique flair, cutting each and every garment individually opens up possibilities to you as the customer. This may, for example, be something as simple as optional handstitching on the lapels, through to more complex jacket styles.

Adriano creating the collar.

Time to take your first steps into the world of custom clothing!

Now that you know what Made-To-Measure is and what to look for to indicate quality, you’re ready to invest in a garment knowing you’re buying quality. Our Made-To-Measure suits start from $1795 for a quality super 120'ss cloth (in stock) and are all half canvased with a large range of customisation's available, including, but not limited to, handstitching on the lapels and open buttonholes on the sleeves (surgeon's cuff). For more information on our Made-To-Measure service, please visit our Made-To-Measure page or give us a call on (03) 9600 2422 to arrange a time to come by.

Stay tuned for more blogs in the near future!

How Relevant is the Construction of Tailor Made Suits

Adriano Carbone Tailor in Melbourne, Women's Suits 0 Comment
custom made suits melbourne

I have been making suits for over 40 years the subject is is a fully canvased suit better than a fused suit I will let you be the judge.

Firstly, fused or canvased, they both bubble now the number one reason is excessive dry cleaning mainly the jacket. Think about it, when you take your jacket to the cleaners, the jacket goes into a big machine with other jackets in some cases up to 25 kilos. Imagine 25 kilos pounding your jacket for 45 minutes it’s basically like a tumble dryer with cleaning fluid. I’m not saying don’t dry clean your jacket but be very picky on who cleans it.

I have made thousands of suits my self personally & still made them today. From when I started in this business fusing has come a long way it comes in different weights weaves and today has a very soft feel as canvas comes different weights and weaves.

About 25 years ago I had made myself a beautiful lora piano pure cashmere jacket. The time came it had to be dry cleaned I didn’t trust any dry cleaner. I happened to be at old watering hole where I met a tailor who had a dry cleaning business who had explained to me how dry cleaning works. He invited me to see his set up so I went. The secret was instead of placing in 20 jackets in the machine he would only put in a maximum of 5.

Today we all live in a world that evolves faster than what we can keep up with – cars for example, a 66 Bentley or 2015 Bentley, which one do you want? I’ll let you be the judge.

Where a Passion for Tailoring was Born

Adriano Carbone Tailor in Melbourne, Tailor Made 0 Comment
best made to measure suits

My grandfather was a master builder, my father is a Master Tailor. I too am a Master Tailor, I guess the Mastery did not miss a generation.

We all have one thing in common – we are engineers, we all have a craft and we love what we do. This is why we all have a passion for our craft as my grandfather, my father and now myself, we are all perfectionists. We were all born to create and bring to life the material we use.

As a little boy I watched my grandfather build his home from the foundations to his dinning table. As for my father, I watch him bring a piece of cloth to life from start to finish, that is were my passion began.

At the age of six, I was standing on a milk crate cutting around chalk marks with big 13 inch shears. By the age of nine, I was making trousers, soon after that by at the age of 15 I had left high school and gone to work with my father, who had the fourth biggest suiting manufacturing company in Melbourne, this is were I started appreciating the craft.

I think I was about 6 years old at the time and my family were on our way to see my uncle in hospital. When we arrived, I split the inner thigh seam of my trousers. I started crying because I felt embarrassed. My father asked me to remove my trouser when we were in the car and by this time I was hysterical. So I removed my trouser and gave it to my father. He put his hand in his fob pocket. He removed a thimble, lifted his lapel and grabbed a sewing needle undid the hem of his trousers and used that cotton to sew up my trouser.

All I can say now when I think back at that moment in time, that is one of the qualities you need to be a Master Tailor. That is the ability and instinct to resolve a problem as quick as it arises.